
Susan is always sharing recipes with me. For example, this recipe; she didn’t go back in time to the Middle Ages to find this one, this medieval hummus, although she has been known to say she would have liked to live during this time period–or during the Italian Rennaissance. She found this on the NYTimes Cooking website.
Writing at NYTimes Cooking, Ligaya Mishan:
“The roots of this recipe, an ancestor of modern hummus, date back at least as far as the 13th century, as the Iraqi food historian Nawal Nasrallah writes on her blog, My Iraqi Kitchen. As adapted by Lucien Zayan, a Frenchman of Egyptian and Syrian descent who runs the Invisible Dog Art Center in Brooklyn, you boil chickpeas until their skins loosen and they reveal themselves, tender little hulks with souls of butter. Then you mash them in a swirl of tahini, olive oil, vinegar, spices and herbs, and fold in a crush of nuts, seeds and preserved lemon, sour-bright and tasting of aged sun. Notably absent from the recipe is garlic. Here, instead, the nuts — Mr. Zayan uses hazelnuts, for more butteriness, and pistachios, with their hint of camphor — fortify the chickpeas in their earthy heft, so close to the richness of meat.”
Ingredients
Yield:About 4½ cups
- ⅓ cup raw hazelnuts
- 1½ tablespoons caraway seeds
- 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
- 1½ teaspoons sesame seeds
- ¼ cup shelled roasted unsalted pistachios
- 5 mint leaves
- 1 small sprig tarragon, leaves only
- 3½ cups cooked drained chickpeas (homemade from 8 ounces dried chickpeas or from two 15-ounce cans chickpeas)
- ½ cup tahini
- ¼ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste (see Tip)
- ½ tablespoon ground sumac, plus more for sprinkling
- 1½ teaspoons rice vinegar
- Salt
- ½ cup ice-cold water
Preparation
- In a small skillet over medium-low heat, toast the hazelnuts, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and the skins begin to split, 3 to 4 minutes, then transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel. When cool, gently rub off the skins and discard.
- Using the same pan, toast the caraway, coriander and sesame seeds, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes, then remove from heat to cool slightly (the seeds will continue to toast).
- Add the toasted hazelnuts and the pistachios to a food processor and pulse until they release their oils and make a compact paste, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the mint and tarragon and pulse to combine.
- Add the chickpeas to the mixture in the food processor, reserving a handful for garnish. Then add the tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, the toasted seeds, sumac, rice vinegar and a pinch of salt. Start pulsing and gradually add the ice water, splash by splash, until creamy and smooth. Taste and add more lemon juice or salt, as desired.
- Spoon the hummus onto a plate. (If you like, use a piping bag and experiment with different tips for an artful presentation.) Drizzle with olive oil, dust with sumac and finish with a few chickpeas on top.
Yours Truly,





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